Flash Mount

Flash Mount

When, and When Not, to Use Flash Photography

Many photographers are aware of the effects created by the use of an "on board" flash or a flash "gun" set up somewhere in a room or mounted to a "shoe" on the body of the camera. Not all amateur photographers however, realize that some images may benefit from the elimination of a flash. Alternately, some people don't realize that "bouncing" a flash will better illuminate a scene without the dark shadows and over-lighting of a direct flash.

How does a photographer, amateur or professional, know when and where to use their flash equipment? Since most of today's cameras are fully automated, the sensor within the camera itself will usually cue the flash. Such settings however, can also be easily disabled or changed to suit the situation. For example, many cameras have a red-eye reduction flash that helps to make photographs without the reflection of the flash in the eyes of the people or animals in the picture.

While a great deal of indoor photography will require the use of a flash to capture the scene accurately, many outdoor settings can benefit from a flash as well. For example, there is a technique referred to as "flash fill" which basically balances an all ready well-lit shot with the addition of a flash bulb. This means that an outdoor image, which may have some slight shadows or shading, can be entirely "filled" with light by the use of a flash.

Additionally, indoor photography should be examined for the amount of flash the picture may, or may not require. For example, a photographer should make an examination of the ambient lighting in a scene or setting, such as a wedding or special event, to be sure that the flash is necessary. If the brilliant light of the flash may diminish the effects of the existing lighting, the photographer usually has two choices - adjust the manual camera settings to let in the most light possible without resorting to a flash, or alternately, bouncing the flash to fill the entire room and not just light the subject.

Using adjusted settings requires a camera that allows for a fully manual mode. The photographer could then make their shutter speed faster and their "f-stop" or lens aperture a lower setting, which actually allows more light into the sensor.

If "bouncing" the light is preferred, the photographer would need a flash bulb unit that is not "on board" the camera, usually a handheld of cable triggered flash that lights the entire space evenly. Bouncing eliminates deep shadows around the subject, and gives the scene warmth.

Like all photographic techniques, it really pays to experiment with settings and results before using them to capture important or professional images.

About the Author

For more useful articles on digital photography, please visit Philip Krasteff's Digital-Photo-Secrets.net. Benefit from the free content on the site, bookmark and use it whenever needed. Digiatal Photography Secrets If you have particular questions regarding photography and/or digital cameras you can contact directly the author through the contact form on the website.

Is a Sigma EF 530 flash good? Can you tell me the market price out there for pentax mount?

I live in malaysia

Well, first of all, all "hot shoe" external flash units will "fit" on any hot shoe mount... But here is the rub.

Most DSLR cameras use trigger voltages of less than 12v (Canon, 6v). After market flash units can have up to 350v trigger voltages which will fry any DSLR's electronics. While the data on that flash says it will work on a whole list of DSLR's, the trigger voltage is not listes. I would check first

http://www.sigmaphoto.com/flashes/flashes_flashes_details.asp?id=3263

If you have a 35mm Pentax, then perhaps the Sigma will be just fine, but as the years go by, you will eventually want a DSLR ... so you may want to by a Pentax dedicated digital flash and only buy a flash one time.

Uncategorized design, flash, howto, linux, usb